Book • n^
Copyright^0.
h
COPYRIGHT DEPOSED
RECRUITS AT THE NAVAL TRAINING CAMP, PELHAM BAY, N. Y.,
LEARNING TO MAKE KNOTS
f • irivirvrc 1
KNOTS
2 A study of Marlinespike Seamanship which Z
embraces Bends, Hitches, Ties, Fastenings A
8 and Splices and their Practical Application.
With chapters on Cordage, Matting, n
Hammock Making and Wire j
Steel Work \
s
^jlh Compiled and Edited by %ffh
4} A. F. ALDRIDGE / 4}
i i
Dedicated to the Sailors
of the United States
i \
\ THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY g
0 JL 9 Murray Street, New York City 0JU
«*!*
%
COPYRIGHT 1918
THE RUDDER PUBLISHING CO.
NEW YORK, U. S. A.
All Rights Reserved
SEP 23 1118
PRESS OF
THOMSON & COMPANY
9 Murray Street, New York
©GU503498 ^
V
CONTENTS
Page
History of Knots ----- 9
Cordage - ------ n
Rope and Its Care - - - - 15
Simple Knots and Loops - • - - 21
Knots for Uniting Ropes - - - 31
Bends and Hitches ----- 36
Knots Formed on Ropes by Their Own
Strands ------ 50
Shortenings ------ 68
Ties -------- 73
Purchases and Slings - - - - 79
Fastenings, Moorings and Ring Knots - 88
Lashings and Seizings - 101
Splicing and Rope Work . - - - 112
Wire Rope Splicing- - - - - 128
Matting ------- 134
Hammock Making ----- 146
PREFACE
The study of knots is always fascinating. To
twist ropes so that they will hold and not break is an
art that comes natural to the sailor and the amateur
will watch him in wonder as he does his work. Knots
are just as important in these days of steam vessels
as they were in the days of the sailing vessel, and now
when thousands of men are being trained to handle
the fleets of vessels building tying knots is a part of
their training.
At the Naval camps and the nautical schools the
men are trained in squads and with a little practice
they soon acquire the art. To aid those students this
book has been published. It has been compiled from
American and British Government records and from
many other sources, so that it is as complete a collec-
tion of knots as it is possible to obtain.
It will be of great assistance to men of the U. S.
Navy, U. S. Naval Reserve, U. S. Junior Naval Re-
serve, the U. S. Nautical Schools and the U. S. Power
Squadrons who are working so loyally to aid their
country in its time of need. To these men this book
is dedicated in the hope that it may be of some help
to them in their work.
HISTORY OF KNOTS
Knots, according to an ingenuous essayist, are
probably as "old as human fingers" and their history
is lost in antiquity. Doubtless when man was first
placed on this earth he learned to make fastenings
from the tendrils of climbing vines and trailing flowers
which twist themselves into odd fastenings as they
lift themselves from the earth. The first cords were
probably twisted grasses and rushes. Since those
early days knots, like Topsy, have "just growed" and
man's ingenuity has enabled him so to arrange ropes
and cords that they will sustain weights, fasten various
articles together and take up strains so that they will
hold under ordinary conditions.
Seamen are credited with having devised the most
knots. They have invented ties upon which depend
the safety of their *ships and the lives of those on board.
Operatives in many trades such as building have bor-
rowed from the seamen their knots and applied them to
their work. In some instances the land operator has
invented new knots or ties to suit conditions not found
on shipboard.
To tie a knot properly or to be able to join ropes
so that they will hold and withstand heavy strains is
IO
so important with seamen that careful attention is
paid to the instruction of the men in this particular
work. At the many naval training camps scattered
about the country capable instructors show the re-
cruits how to properly make knots, ties, hitches, bends
and splices, and until the recruit knows how to handle
ropes quickly and properly he is not much use at sea.
In the nautical schools, too, and in the divisions of the
U. S. Power Squadron much attention is paid to this
part of the novice's instruction.
The steamship is steadily driving the sailing vessel
from the seas. Of course on a sailing ship, where
every spar is stayed by rope and where all the sails,
the propelling power, are handled by ropes, the ability
to properly tie knots is more important than on a vessel
driven by steam or oil engines, but on the powered
vessel there are many occasions when it is necessary
to have a knowledge of knots, particularly in handling
cargoes, in making fast to piers or moorings, in towing,
in handling boats, and in hundreds of other instances
so that the steam engine is not making "marlinespike
seamanships a lost art.
CORDAGE
Rope is a word that is taken to mean almost every
pliable material. Technically a rope is a cord one inch
or more in diameter. It is generally made of hemp,
manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron or copper wire. In
studying the nature and uses of knots, particularly
those which come under the designation of splices,
some knowledge of the mode and of the principles on
which ropes are made, is essentially necessary. The
simplest and most effectual mode of obtaining the
united strength of fibres composing the rope would
be to lay them side by side and fasten them together
at each end as in the selvagee, which is described on
page 120. This plan, even if the fibres of hemp
were of the necessary length, would be open to many
objections; hence it was necessary to devise some plan
which would give unlimited length to the rope and at
the same time preserve its torsion and portability.
This has been achieved by the compression and twist-
ing of the fibres in different directions, until they pro-
duce a compact, hard and strong rope, neither breaking
the fibres on the one hand nor leaving them so loose
as to be easily drawn out from the mass on the other —
either extreme would be equally fatal in its results
12
and injurious to the stability of the rope. This is
achieved by the modern processes of rope making.
First the fibres of hemp are loosely twisted to-
gether, right-handed, and form what is technically known
as yarn. Two or three yarns twisted together form a
FIBRES TO CABLE
strand; three strands form a rope and three ropes a
cable. The diagram illustrates this clearly. A is a
yarn teased out to show the original fibre ; B shows the
yarn forming the strand ; the strands C, H, and J form
the rope D ; the ropes D, F, and G form the cable E.
13
A hawser rope is composed of three strands laid up
generally right-handed — that is, the direction taken
by the strands in forming the rope always runs from
left to right.
A shroud-laid rope, also laid right-handed, consists
of four strands with a heart in the center.
HAWSER ROPE
SHROUD-LAID ROPE
CABLE-LAID ROPE
A cable-laid rope is composed of three right-handed
hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that
it may be said to consist of nine strands, or it may
be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right-
handed.
H
Spun yarn is a number of yarns twisted up right-
handed. The number varies from two to eight.
Nettle stuff is made of two or three yarns laid to-
gether and is used for making clews of hammocks,
harbor gaskets, etc.
Sennit is made of a number of yarns plaited up into
square, round or flat sennit as required and used for
various purposes.
Junk consists of lengths of condemned cordage 4
inches and above.
Oakum is old rope unlaid and the yarns picked into
hemp for caulking the seams in ships' decks or sides.
Boltrope is cordage tarred and white, made of
Italian hemp from y2 inch to 6 inches. It is soft laid
and well stretched and is used for roping sails and
awnings.
Hammock lashings and lanyards are of white Italian
hemp iJ//\. inch.
Coir rope is three-stranded right-handed rope. The
yarn is spun from the fibres of the cocoanut tree. It
is one-third lighter than hemp but not nearly so dur-
able. It soon rots after being wet, if not well dried
before being stowed away. As it floats so light it is
very useful for warps and is about a quarter the
strength of hemp rope.
Twine is made from very fine hemp.
ROPE AND ITS CARE
Rope — and a sailor's mind instantly pictures a ship.
Ropes belong to a ship in his mind's processes and
since man launched his first boat on the water, rope
has been in one form or another part of a boat's equip-
ment. Savages probably had ropes before they had
boats, but with the development of the boat has come
the development of rope into the product of today.
Did you ever stop to think why rope is so much
used aboard ships? What are the qualities which
make it such a necessary part of a ship's gear? Ropes
are primarily used to transmit power in a convenient
way. If sailors could grasp the sail in their hands and
clew it up no clew-lines would be necessary. But their
arms are not long enough and the power would be
spread over such a large area that it would become
ineffective. A clew-line concentrates that power from
that point of application to a convenient place for the
sailor to apply it. An iron rod would do the same
thing, you say. Yes, but an iron rod lacks two essen-
tial qualities — lightness and flexibility. Flexibility is
the cardinal virtue of a rope. When not in use it can
be coiled down to a very small space and it can follow
the wake of the worst helmsman without fear of
i6
breaking its back. A chain is flexible, but its own
weight is so great that it is only of value for certain
kinds of work.
Ropes are made of organic material such as cotton,
hemp, manila, grass, and of metals such as iron, steel,
bronze and sometimes aluminum.
The class of organic materials is classified as to the
material and the manner in which they are made up.
Grass, manila and hemp are spun into rope, while
cotton is spun, braided and knitted. Braided and
knitted ropes have the distinctive quality of being
able to transmit torsional stresses such as a flexible
shaft and are used for this purpose in the patent log-
line. They are also free from turns, which makes
them valuable as signal halyards, though by the use
of small swivels this bad feature on spun rope has been
overcome for use as signal halyards. When you do
use cotton, remember it has a great ability for shrink-
ing. Therefore, do not haul your halyards taut in
dry weather and wonder wdiy they parted in the first
rain-squall.
If spun rope has ruined so many dispositions by the
diabolical turn which it can foul itself into — why use
it? Because that very same twist — the cause of so
much cursing — is the secret of its strength. Rope is
subjected to a tension or pull along the line of its
17
longest axis. The thread is made of little fibres which
are twisted together. The threads are then twisted to
make yarns or strands and the strands twisted or spun
into rope or lines. Rope or lines are made up into
hawsers.
Take a coil spring and pull out the ends. If you
put power enough on the wire it straightens out. This
is exactly what happens when you put a strain on a
rope ; the twists or turns try to straighten out, and
iie in a straight line along the center. But there is yarn
already in the center, and the coils are pressing in on
all sides, squeezing it more and more as the load in-
creases. Now the reason why the twro first fibres
clung together when they were twisted was that this
same pressure made the friction between the fibres so
great that they could not slide by each other. This
applies to the many hundreds of fibres which make up
the rope as a whole. So the harder the pull the harder
the squeeze and the harder it is for them to slip by
each other. The fact that some pieces of fibre are first
on the outside and then on the inside makes all get an
equal share of the squeeze. Why does this not go on
indefinitely? Because up to a certain load the ten-
dency to cling together is greater than the reaction
from the center, which has to push them apart, but
when this pressure or reaction becomes greater than
i8
the friction the little fibres begin to slide and the ropes
part.
The smaller sizes of spun ropes of this organic class
are designated by the number of threads used to make
up the rope, such as nine-thread or eighteen-thread line.
The larger sizes are designated by the number of
inches of circumference, such as one-inch, three-inch,
etc. Hawsers are measured by the circumference in
inches. Spun ropes are three-stranded or four-stran-
ded. A three-stranded rope is more flexible than a
four, but a four has greater surface area for the same
strength and weight and therefore wears longer.
Hemp rope is harder and less flexible than manila
and is used for standing rigging, while manila rope is
used for running rigging.
Grass or coir ropes are used where the rope is sub-
merged often, as they do not rot when damp and can
be stowed wet. They are very elastic and are specially
used for towing light weights, such as targets in the
Navy.
Just a few hints about this general class of organic
ropes:
Always dry these ropes before stowing them to
prevent rotting.
Protect them from chafing by use of chafing gear
19
or reversing end for end to bring the wear in different
places.
Always coil down right-handed or with the sun.
The greater the surface the less the wear on any
one strand, so use four-stranded for ropes whose par-
ticular wear is from chafing such as anchor warps, for
small boats and boat-falls. A small size rope would
often be strong enough but would chafe through
quicker.
Metallic or wire ropes are generally either iron,
steel, bronze or combinations of metal strands spun
with hemp or manila strands.
Bronze rope is used for tiller ropes because it is
non-magnetic and it will not rust. This is important,
as tiller ropes are often in inaccessible places. If it
does not pass near your compass and it is out where it
can be easily examined and cared for to prevent rust-
ing, a flexible steel tiller rope is cheaper and stronger
for the same weight and also wears longer.
Galvanized iron wire is used for standing rigging,
and the rusting in places where turns have broken the
surface coating, such as around thimbles of an eye
splice, should be carefully looked for. Most sailors
think it wiser not to paint wire except for decorative
purposes. If it is painted be sure to remove all grease
and water from the surface.
20
Steel rope is used for running rigging because of
its flexibility and lightness. It is not adapted, how-
ever, for small boats.
A combination of alternate strands of wire and
hemp is made into rope known as durable rope, and is
used particularly for cargo falls and it is more flexible
and more easily handled.
SIMPLE KNOTS AND LOOPS
All knots are begun with loops or hitches. These
may be single or double as required. The simple hitch
is self-explanatory, as are the underhand and the over-
hand loops. The illustrations explain them clearly.
SIMPLE HITCH
UNDERHAND LOOP OVERHAND LOOP
The Simple Knot begins with one of these loops by
passing the loose end through the loop and then draw-
ing it taut as shown in the diagram.
SIMPLE KNOT
FIGURE OF 8 KNOT
The Figure of 8 Knot is known as the perfect knot.
It is formed by an overhand and an underhand loop
overlapping each other and the loose end passed
through the loop. When drawn tight it bears a close
resemblance to the Arabic numeral 8, hence its name.
22
DOUBLE KNOT NIPPED
TREBLE KNOT
OPEN
The Double, Treble, Four-Fold, or Six-Fold Knots
may be called compound knots. They are used often
when it is necessary to shorten a rope a few inches or
to increase the size or strength of a holding knot to
prevent it passing through an eye or a block. These
knots are made by passing the end of a rope twice,
three times, or as many times as may be necessary,
through a loop as shown in the Simple Knot. The
diagrams show a double knot loosely formed and when
nipped or drawn taut, and a treble knot in its open
formation and pulled taut.
FIVE-FOLD KNOT OPEN NIPPED
The Five and Six-Fold Knots present handsome
coils and are useful to travelers who do not wish to cut
the precious cords of their baggage.
23
From Simple knots the student passes to loops,
nooses and running knots. The Bight of a rope is the
loop formed when a rope is bent back on itself. The
Standing Part is the principal portion or longest part
of the rope and the end is that part used in forming
the knot or hitch.
The Simple Running Knot is made by passing a
hitch instead of the end of a rope when making a simple
SIMPLE RUNNING KNOT TOMFOOL KNOT LOOP KNOT
knot. The variations of this knot are numerous.
When the loose end is knotted with a simple perfect
or double knot it forms one of the most useful and
easily made loops.
The Tomfool Knot is a double loop through a simple
knot. This knot is also known as the Single Pitcher
Knot. It is said that this knot has baffled many ex-
perts who profess to be able to break any knot. It is
made like the running knot. The firm end is then
passed through the open, simple knot so as to form a
double loop or bow. If the wrists are passed within
the loops, the loops then drawn taut and the loose ends
tied firmly around the central part a pair of very good
handcuffs is furnished.
LOOP KXOT FOR LARGE CORDAGE
The Loop Knot is the ordinary useful loop of every-
day life and it forms the foundation for many more
elaborate knots and for shortenings. A more orna-
mental and even stronger loop, which is well adapted
for large cordage, is made by the figure 8 knot. This
loop, like the common loop knot, when once made and
has been subjected to a lengthened strain, is very diffi-
cult to untie. In this case there is nothing better than
25
a running knot with a check knot, which is a modifica-
tion of the fisherman's knot. A simple knot is tied
over the running line as shown in the figure. After
use it may be easily drawn apart, the loop slipped and
the knot untied in very short time.
BOWLINE KNOT
26
The Bowline Knfct cannot slip and is therefore al-
ways used for slinging a man for the purpose of doing
some particular piece of work ; the workman sits in the
sling. First take the part Z in the right hand with Y
FIG. 1
FIG.
RUNNING BOWLINE KNOT
in the left hand, place Z on Y, and, turning the left
hand over from you to the left, form a loop and reeve C
as shown by the dotted line and haul taut.
The Running Bowline is used whenever a running
27
noose is required. Form a loop with a long end C
lying underneath the standing part as shown in Fig. i.
Now bring end C over part Y and with it form the
bowline knot on part Z as in the previous case it was
FIG. 1
BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT
FIG. 2
formed on its own part, when it will appear as in
Fig. 2.
The Bowline on the Bight is used for lowering a
man from aloft or slinging a man over the ship's side.
Using both parts of the rope together, commence as
28
in making an ordinary bowline. To finish off, open
out bight C, taking it in the direction indicated by the
dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul
taut when it will appear as in Fig. 2.
A Simple Clinch is formed by closing up the initial
loop to form a small ring and securing, by a seizing,
a small lashino- at D.
SIMPLE CLINCH RUNNING OR INSIDE CLINCH OUTSIDE CLINCH
A Running or Inside Clinch is formed by the end of
a rope on its own standing part and is often used for
securing buntlines to the foot of a sail.
An Outside Clinch is formed in a similar way but
the end, C, is brought round on top, that is, away from
the bight.
29
The Standing Bowline Knot is formed by passing
the loose end through the lower loop of a figure 8 knot
and seizing or tying the end with small cord or
marline.
Slip Clinches are very easily made. They are really
open running knots seized instead of tied.
STANDING BOWLINE AND SLIP CLINCHES SEIZED
The Running Noose is one of the most common and
useful of running knots used in commerce but it is
only applicable to small cords. A simple knot is made
3Q
on the end of the cord which is then simply knotted
round.
The Crossed Running Knot is useful in packing-
heavy goods as well as a useful anchor fastening.
RUNNING NOOSE
CROSSED RUNNING KNOT
KNOTS FOR UNITING ROPES
The most common knots, those used in everyday
life, are to unite the ends of two separate pieces of
cord or rope.
FIG.
FIG. 2
REEF KNOT
The Reef Knot is the simplest of all knots and al-
ways used when a common tie is required. The two
illustrations show how this knot is made. Having
constructed the knot as far as Fig. I, be sure part A
is kept in front of part B as shown, and the end led
in according to the direction of the dotted line.
FIG. 1 FIG. 2
FALSE OR GRANNY KNOT
FIG. 3
32
If the cords be of unequal thickness the knot will
slip, form a loop and part company, as shown in the
first of the illustrations (page 31), (Fig. 1). If the ends
are not parallel to the rope it becomes the False Knot
or Granny Knot. Figs. 2 and 3 show the difference.
A better way to fasten two ropes of unequal size
is to tie or seize the ends (Fig. 1 below) and when this
is done as shown the square knot or reef can be made
as usual.
fig. 1
FIG. 2 FIG. 3
OPEN-HAND KNOT
The Open-Hand Knot is a good one for joining two
ropes of unequal diameter. It is very quickly made
and has the recommendation of never slipping or un-
tying. If, however, a great strain is put on the rope
it is apt to break at the knot. The illustrations above,
fig. 1 fig. 2
weaver's knot
FIG. 3
33
one showing the open formation (Fig. 2), and the' other
its back view when drawn taut (Fig. 3), explain the
process of making.
The Weaver's Knot is very useful in joining small
cord or twine and is the best for thread. The ends
are crossed as in Fig. 1 and both cords are held between
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. The right
end, A, is then looped back over the left end and
brought under the thumb, where it is held fast, while
the right hand end, B, is slipped through the loop.
The knot (Fig. 3) is then formed by tightening the
right hand cord. If cord thicker than thread is used,
the end, B, must be held between the thumb and
ringer of the left hand while the knot is being drawn
taut, as in Fig. 4 (below).
FIG. 4 FIG. 5 FIG. 6
FISHERMAN'S KNOT
The Fisherman's or Englishman's Knot is of quite
another character. It is formed by two simple knots
(Fig. 7) slipped over each cord as in Fig. 5, and when
drawn taut its front appearance is seen in Fig. 6. It
is used by anglers, as it may be separated by taking
the ends A and B in Fig. 6 so as to admit a third line.
34
FIG. 7 FIG. 8
ORDINARY KNOT OR TIE
FIG. 9
The Ordinary Knot or Tie for uniting large ropes
is shown in Fig. 8. It has all the advantages of the
open-hand knot, with the additional recommendations
that it is easy to make, very strong and does not strain
the fibres of the rope. First make the simple knot
(Fig. 7) and then interlace the other cord in the man-
ner shown in Fig. 8. When drawn taut it has the
appearance of Fig. 9. If the ends are whipped it is
really a neat and handsome as well as useful knot.
SHORTENING TIE
The Shortening Tie is used when there is too much
rope and where it is necessary to use a large knot for
the purpose of preventing its running too far through
the eye, ring or loop. It is formed by making the
figure of 8 knot at the end of a rope, then interlacing it
35
with another rope, and when drawn taut it has the
appearance of the third diagram.
A ROPE YARN KNOT
A Rope Yarn Knot is for joining two yarns together
and is clearly shown in the diagram.
BENDS AND HITCHES
It is rather difficult to say where knots end and
bends begin, because a tie made in a particular way
and under certain circumstances may be called a knot,
but differently constructed and under other conditions
HALF HITCH
TIMBER HITCH
it is called a bend or a hitch. The result is the same
in each case. A single hitch may be merely a loop
formed in a rope.
A Half Hitch is used generally in conjunction with
37
other hitches. Its formation is easily seen from the
diagram.
The Timber Hitch is used to secure the end of a
rope to a spar, also for bending a rope round light
cases, bales, etc., when provisioning ships. It is
formed by making a half hitch with rather a long end
and expanding the end backwards round its own part.
It is used also with a half hitch for towing spars, as
shown in the diagram below.
TIMBER HITCH FOR TOWING SPARS
The Crabber's Eye Knot is not well known but is
one that is not likely to part when strained. To make
it bring the end back to form a loop, taking it first
under and then over the standing part, up through the
main loop, over the standing bight again and up
through its own bight. Before the turns are hauled
into their places, the knot will slip on the part A, as in
an ordinary knot. If the part B is hauled upon the
strand, A, which passes through the center knot,
rises and the coil which goes round it jambs, making
38
the knot secure so that it may be used as a running
knot or otherwise, as desired.
A Buntline Hitch is commenced as in making an
outside clinch but instead of putting on a seizing, the
end is passed over and through the bight, as clearly
shown in the diagram.
CRABBER'S EYE KNOT
The Clove Hitch is really
hitches and is generally used
to be secured to a larger one
for use for further purposes,
to the shrouds, and used also
butt slings. Its formation can
in the diagrams.
BUNTLINE HITCH
a jambing of two half
when a small rope has
and the end kept free
as in securing ratlines
for securing the end of
be followed very easily
39
CLOVE HITCH
The Roband Hitch is very useful when a tackle,
hook, ring or another rope is to be fastened to a beam
ROBAND HITCH
SLIPPERY HITCH
40
or spar. This is another simple hitch, clearly illus-
trated in the diagram.
The Slippery Hitch is valuable because of the ease
with which it can be cast off in an emergency. It will
hold securely while there is a strain on the rope.
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
ROLLING HITCH
The Rolling Hitch is commenced and finished like
a clove hitch, but, as can be seen from the figures, there
is an intermediate round turn between the first and
last hitches. It will be seen that the round turn in
Fig. 2 is taken around both the standing part, A, and
the larger rope B. The great value of this hitch is that
41
it does not slip, and this can be rendered doubly sure by
backing the end, C, round the part, D, and securing
the end with a strop. It is used for bending a small
rope to a larger one, for putting a tail jigger on a rope,
and for securing hammocks to gantlines.
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
ROLLING HITCH
The Double Blackwall Hitch is made by taking the
bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the
strop of the block, crossing it behind, then placing the
under part over the hook and crossing the upper part
42
on top of it. It holds better than the two preceding
hitches.
The Marling Hitch is for lashing up hammocks or
putting temporary seizing on two ropes or spars. It
is also used when making swabs.
The Midshipman's Hitch is used at times instead of
DOUBLE BLACKWALL
HITCH
MARLING
HITCH
MIDSHIPMAN'S
HITCH
a Blackwall Hitch and it will hold better if the rope is
at all greasy. It is made by first forming a Blackwall
hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing
it over the bill of the hook.
The Killick Hitch is a modification of the timber
hitch. After making a timber hitch and hauling it
taut, a single hitch is made and slipped over the end
43
of a stone. This makes a secure anchor on fishing
grounds on rocky coasts where an anchor will not hold.
The Magnus Hitch is a method of securing a rope
to a spar. Take the end of the rope twice round a
spar in front of the standing part, round the spar again
and then pass it through the last bight.
The Round Turn with Two Half Hitches is used to
secure a hawser to the ring of a buoy and the rope in
this case should be parcelled as shown in the diagram.
KILLICK HITCH
MAGNUS HITCH
The Marline Spike Hitch is used for heaving the
turns of a seizing taut with a marline spike or hooking
the hook of tackle to any rope where a small pull is
required. It is formed by the standing part being
picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike
lays under the standing part and over the sides of
the loop. Its advantage is that it never jambs. .
44
The Blackwall Hitch is used for hooking a tackle
to a rope and bringing the fall of one jigger to the
double block of another. It consists of a half hitch,
ROUND TURN WITH
TWO HALF HITCHES
MARLINE SPIKE
HITCH
BLACKWALL HITCH
and as soon as any strain comes on it the standing
part, A, jambs the end part, C. By taking another
round turn at B, before passing C under A, it will hold
more securely.
STUN' SAIL HALYARD BEND
45
A Stun'sail Halyard Bend is simply a Fisherman's
bend with the end backed again over the last round
and under the first.
TOPSAIL HALYARD BEND
The Topsail Halyard Bend is made by bringing the
rope twice round the spar, back over the standing part,
under all turns, over two turns and under the last.
Then jamb all the coils close and haul taut.
SHEET BEND
46
The Sheet Bend, as its name implies, is the method
of attaching the sheet to the clew of the sail. It is also
used for securing boats' lazy painters to the Jacob's
ladders of the lower booms. In making a bend the
ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously
as in forming reef knots, but an eye or loop is first
formed in the end of one of the ropes as seen in the
first diagram and the other rope's end is then rove
through it in the various ways required. To form a
Sheet Bend pass the second rope's end underneath the
eye at point A and bring up through the loop, then
form with it a half hitch round C and B. It will hold
still better and is less likely to jamb, if the end is
passed round again as in the third diagram. This is
called a Double Sheet Bend.
FISHERMAN'S BEND
47
The Fisherman's Bend is formed by taking two
round turns around the object to which the rope is to
be secured and then backing the end round in the form
of a half hitch under both the standing part and the
second round turn. The end may be further secured
by taking a half hitch around its own part or by stop-
ping it to it. The dotted line in the first diagram shows
the direction the end C must take. This bend is used
for bending a hawser to the ring of an anchor or a
rope's end to a bucket.
SIMPLE HAWSER BEND
The Hawser Bend is so easy as to be constantly
used when only a temporary purpose has to be served.
BOWLINE BEND (UPPER)
HALF HITCH AND SEIZING BEND
48
The Bowline Bend is the strongest of all knotted
hawsers. It is formed of two Bowline knots, one cross-
ing the loop of the other as shown in the diagram.
The Half Hitch and Seizing Bend is used on haw-
sers which are to be joined for a long period. Its for-
mation is shown in the illustration clearly.
The Carrick Bend is for bending two hawsers to-
gether when required to go around a capstan. First
CARRICK BEND
form with hawser No. I a loop as in the upper diagram.
Pass the second hawser under the first at A, bring up
through the eye B, back it over the cross at C and
bring up again towards you through the eye B, and
then stop the ends of each hawser to their own respec-
tive parts as shown in the lower diagram.
A Double Carrick Bend is formed in precisely the
same way, but a complete round turn is taken around
49
the cross of the first hawser and then led up again
through the eye and finished off.
DOUBLE CARRICK BEND
CHAIN HITCH
The Chain Hitch is used to attach a small rope to
aid in pulling a larger. When it is necessary to use
a lever as a handspike the fastening in the lower dia-
gram is used. First a clove hitch is formed to the
spar and as many single hitches as required are then
made. It may be finished off with any secure knot.
KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY
THEIR OWN STRANDS
If ropes, hawsers or cables are left with their ends
unguarded, they are sure to become untwisted or other-
wise unmanageable. The same is true in a lesser de-
gree of lanyards and smaller ropes. These can easily
be secured with a fine whipping and the smaller yarns
and threads by a single overhand or other knot. The
ends of ropes at sea are variously treated. In some
instances they are finely tapered to a point, to pass
easily through a block or ring. While some of these
knots for guarding the rope ends may seem fanciful
they are by no means merely ornamental and many of
them play important parts in the standing rigging of a
ship.
At first glance some of these knots may appear to
be very intricate and difficult to make. They are not
as difficult as their pictures would seem to indicate
and a little thoughtful study, carefully following the ex-
planatory diagrams, will smooth away all troubles.
To Whip a Rope first lay the end of a length of
twine along the end of the rope, and then, commencing
at the part furthest from the rope's end take a half
dozen or more turns around both the rope and the
Si
twine, as shown in the first diagram. Then lay the
twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over
the turns already taken as seen in the second diagram.
To finish off take that portion of the loop designated.
A, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope
and part, B, of the twine until the loop is all used up.
Pull through the remainder snugly by part C and cut
WHIPPING A ROPE
off short when no end of twine will be visible as in
the third diagram.
A Palm and Needle Whipping is a permanent way
of securing a rope's end from fraying and better than
the whipping put on by hand. First place the needle
under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole
length of twine through. Take a number of turns
52
round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut
in turn, and finish up by following round with the
needle between each strand, forming a series of wrap-
pings, and cut off the end of the twine.
PALM AND NEEDLE WHIPPING
To point a rope first put on a stop at two and one
half times the circumference of the rope from the
end, which will leave about the length for pointing.
Unlay the rope to the stop, then unlay the strands,
split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle
out of each yarn. A nettle is made by laying up the
yarns with the finger and thumb left-handed. When
the nettles are made up stop them back on the stand-
ing part of the rope. Then writh the rest of the yarns,
form the point by scraping them down to a proper
size with a knife and marl them down together with
twine. Divide the nettles, taking every other one up
53
and every other one down. Pass three turns with a
piece of twine which is called the warp very taut round
the part where the nettles separate taking a hitch
with the last turn. Repeat this process by placing
every alternate nettle up or down, passing the warp
or rilling, taking a hitch each time until the point is
to its required length. You may either form a bight
POINTING A ROPE
with the last lay by passing the warp through the
bights, haul them taut, and cut them off, or, work
a becket in the end by taking a small piece of rope one-
fourth the size of the rope, form a bight, unlay the
ends, and twist the six strands up again by two taking
some of the inside yarns and lay them up as the rope,
then short splice that and the becket together and
marl it down.
54
The Wall Knot is used for finishing off seizing-
forming a shroud knot. It is also used on the end of a
rope to prevent it unreeving. To form a wall knot
first unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in
the first diagram below.
WALL KNOT
Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right
lead strand A in the direction indicated, viz., under
strand B and up between strands B and C as in the
second diagram.
WALL KNOT IN MAKING AND FINISHED
Then with strand B form a similar loop, enclosing
strands A and C and bringing the end of strand B up
between A and D as in the first diagram above.
Now with strand C form a similar loop enclosing
strands B and A by leading the end of strand C up
through the loop E in strand A as in the second
56
diagram. Finally work all parts well taut, whip the
ends of the strands together and cut off short, at the
bottom diagram.
CROWNING
A Double Wall Knot is formed by making the
single wall knot first and not hauling it taut. Then
take one end and bring it underneath the part of the
first walling next to it and push it up through the
same bight. Do the same with the other strands,
pushing them up and through two bights. If made
this way it* will have a double and a single crown. A
double wall double crowned is a continuation of the
double wall. The strands are laid by the side of
those of the single crown and pushed through the same
bight in the single crown and down through the double
walling- as shown in the illustration. The middle
57
figure shows one method of finishing a single wall but
cutting off the strands and tying them with twine.
The double crowned wall knot may be finished by a
Lark's Nest by interlacing the loose strands one within
another by a requisite number of turns over the pud-
ding. This forms a knot at the end of the rope.
CROWN KNOT
MANROPE KNOT
The Crown Knot or crowning forms the basis of
other knots. To make a crown pass the bights of the
first and second strands over the second and third
strands respectively, dip the end of the third down
through the bight of the first and work the knot into
shape. Its construction can be followed very easily
in the diagram. Double crowning is done by follow-
ing round each strand again alongside the first lead.
58
The Manrope Knot is used for securing the upper
ends of the gangway manropes. It is made by first
forming a wall and then crowning it as in the first
diagram. Then follow round the wall again and
lastly follow round the crown, when the finished knot
will appear as in the second diagram.
The Stopper Knot is used in the ends of stoppers
and is made by forming a wall and half a wall, putting
on a good whipping about two or three inches from
the knot and cut off the ends.
TURK'S HEAD KNOT
The Turk's Head Knot is worked upon a rope with
a piece of small line. Take a clove hitch slack with
the rope with the line round the rope. Then take one
of the bights farmed by the clove hitch and put it over
the other, pass the end under, and up, through the bight
which is underneath. Then cross the bights again
and put the end round again, under, and up, through
the bio-ht which is underneath. After this follow the
59
lead and it will make a turban of three parts to each
cross.
Single Matthew Walker Knot is used for securing
the standing part of a rope or making beckets for
buckets, etc. To make this knot begin as for the wall
knot but pass the first strand A under both B and C
as shown in the first diagram. Then pass B under
both strands C and A, and bring up through the first
loop formed by A, shown in the second diagram.
SINGLE MATTHEW WALKER KNOT
6o
Similarly pass C under A and B and bring up
through the loops first formed by A and B as seen
in the third diagram.
THIRD PROCESS OF MATTHEW WALKER KNOT
The Double Matthew Walker is easily made when
one notices the difference between a single Matthew
Walker and a wall knot. In the wall knot each strand
is simply interlaced with the strand immediately on
its right coming up through the loop formed by the
second strand. In the single Matthew Walker each
6i
DOUBLE MATTHEW WALKER OPEN AND TAUT
strand interlaces the two strands to its right coming
up through the loop of the third strand. Another
evolution in the same order gives the double Matthew
Walker. It is formed as will be seen in the diagram
by making each strand contain its own loop, the other
two strands and its own end, that is, each strand leads
62
up through its own bight after interlacing the other
two.
SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT MAKING
The Single Diamond Knot is made some distance
from the end of a rope. It is therefore necessary to
unlay the rope considerably more than is required in
the preceding knots and as the strands will have to
be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in
the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of
the three strands down alongside the standing part
of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold them
thus with the left hand. Take the first strand A as
shown in the diagram and putting it over the next,
B, bring it up through the bight of the third strand, C.
63
DIAMOND KNOT
Take the end of the second strand over the third
and up through the bight of the first. The last strand
is brought over the first and up through the bight of
the second. Haul taut and lay the rope up again.
The first diagram above shows the loops in their places
with the ends through them before they are hauled
taut and the second diagram shows the completed knot,
DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT
64 i
The Double Diamond Knot is made first like the
single diamond and then the ends are made to follow
the lead of the single knot through two single sights,
the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last
strand passes through two double bights. The ends
are then hauled taut and laid up as for the manrope
knot.
SHROUD KNOT
The Shroud Knot is of use in joining two ropes
together, particularly in joining a stay or shroud that
has been carried away. Each rope is unlaid the neces-
sary length and they are then brought close together.
A wall knot is formed on each rope with the strands
65
of the other as seen in the first diagram. The com-
pleted knot is seen in the second diagram but to mak?
a neat job the ends should be marled and served as
in the third diagram.
SNAKING AND SEIZING
Snaking or Seizing is done by taking the end under
and over the outer turns of the seizing alternately,
passing over the whole. The whole may be whipped
also with small twine. The ends of a four-stranded
rope may be thus secured. The end is first whipped
as shown at A in the diagram. The four strands are
then opened out. They are then brought down over
the end in loops and the strands tied together, as in
the second diagram, or they may be simply brought
5
66
down and bound to the cable with twine, as shown in
the third diagram.
SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT
A Spritsail Sheet Knot is made by unlaying both
ends of a rope and bringing the two standing parts
together as in the first diagram. Grasp both parts of
the rope at A, with the six strands form a wall knot,
that is, by passing 2 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4
under 5, 5 under 6 and 6 under the loop formed by 1.
Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the
6;
top in an opposite direction and crown by passing the
other four, each in turn, alternately over and under
these two. Each of the six strands will then come
out leading in a downward direction alongside the
strands forming the first walling. Now follow round
the walling again, when the strands will come through
in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the
first crowning. Follow through the crowning once
more and cut off the short ends, when a handsome and
useful stopper knot will result as in the second diagram.
SHORTENINGS
Shortenings are, as the term implies, knots that
take up the surplus cord and keep the ends from being
in the way. A piece of rope or cord is often too
long and to cut it would be waste, so a shortening
knot is used. Sometimes the tie, four, five or six-fold
knots are used for this purpose.
SINGLE PLAIT OR CHAIN KNOT
The Single Plait, or as the sailor terms it, the
Chain Knot, is the commonest of all these knots. First
make a running loop and then draw the loose end
69
through the loop and repeat this operation until all
excess of cord has been taken up. The end may be
secured by bringing the end of the rope through the
loop or by passing a belaying pin through the loop.
These two methods are illustrated in the diagram.
TWIST KNOT
The Twist Knot is an ordinary three plait, although
it is formed with one piece of rope. It is more use-
ful than when formed of three separate pieces, for the
ends are fastened and it cannot come undone. To
make this twist hold the double loop in the left hand;
the side A is then brought over to B, with a half
turn B is crossed over to A and the process of an
ordinary three plait is continued until the end of the
rope is reached, when the loose end is passed through
the bight and the knot is fastened and completed.
The Double Chain Knot is very easily made, if the
first loop is made secure by a twist in the rope as
shown in the diagram, and then pass the loose end
7°
DOUBLE CHAIN KNOT
through the preceding loop right and left until the
knot is finished.
SHEEP SHANK OR DOG SHANK
7i
The Sheep Shank, or Dog Shank as it is sometimes
called, is an old-fashioned method of shortening a
rope and can be used on any sized cordage. It is
used for shortening a rope which requires lengthen-
ing again. Gather up the amount to be shortened in
the form of the upper illustration. Then with parts
A and B form a half-hitch round the tw^o parts of the
bight as in the second figure.
To render it still more dependable the bights A and
B may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as
in the third and fourth figures.
"J233SSSSS
BEND SHORTENING
Bend Shortening or Simple Loop is a plain, useful
expedient for stout rope and has the merit of not in-
juring the ropes by an unnecessary strain, or cross-
ing the fibres of the hemp. It will not, however,
stand any great strain.
BOW SHORTENING
72
The Bow or Knot Shortening is very quickly made.
It is simply an ordinary knot in the middle of a rope
in which a double bend has previously been made. It
is not adapted to heavy ropes nor will it stand a heavy
strain.
CATSPAW
The Catspaw is one of the easiest made loops to be
used for hooking on the block of a tackle or shortening
up a bale sling stop. First throw back a bight as
shown in the first diagram. Then taking hold of A
and B, one in each hand, twist them up as in the second
diagram. Bring the two eyes A and B together and
hook in the tackle.
TIES
When the many varieties of knots and ties are
analyzed it will be found that ties used in trades are
all taken first from the mariner. The sailor learned
to fasten ropes so that they were able to take up all
strains evenly and to hold without chafing or with-
out any undue strain being put on any one part of the
rope. Consequently when builders erect scaffolding
they use the ties and knots long known at sea. The
Clove Hitch is also known as the Builder's Knot be-
cause it is used to hold the scaffolding. The Clove
Hitch is used by surgeons in cases of dislocation.
The Reef Knot is also used by surgeons to tie arteries
when performing operations. So it is with many other
knots and because of their uses for other than nautical
work thev have often received other names.
to
SIMPLE KNOT
74
The Simple Knot is the foundation for many ties.
In the illustration this knot is seen made around a mast
or other solid substance. This simple knot can at
once become a clove hitch or the builder's knot which
is illustrated on page 39.
DOUBLE BUILDER'S KNOT DOUBLE BOW KNOT
SINGLE BOW KNOT SINGLE TWIST KNOT
The Double Builder's Knot is'shown in the diagram
above, upper left. It is made in the same way as the
clove hitch or builder's knot except that the end goes
75
around again as before and underneath its own part
so making it much stronger.
The Single Bow Knot is one of the most common
of the knots in general use. It is commenced with
the simple knot and made by doubling one of the
loose ends as shown in the diagram.
The Double Bow Knot or rosette knot is begun
in the same way. Care must be taken to keep the
simple knot taut until the bow knot is completed.
The ends must lie straight as in the reef knot or it
will become the false knot.
DOUBLE TWIST KNOT
TENT POLE KNOT
RUNNING KNOT
RUNNING KNOT CHECKED
76
The Double Twist Knot is useful when small cords
are used and tightness is required. The diagram,
upper left, on the previous page shows how it is made.
The Tent Pole Knot, previous diagram, lower left,
is one that can be used to advantage by all who have
to occupy tents or to travel much. It is a simple loop
RUNNING KNOT CHECKED BY A FLEMISH KNOT (LEFT)
AND BY A CHECK KNOT (RIGHT)
made by joining the two ends of a rope with a fisher-
Tnan's knot. This admits a short cross-bar or wooden
pin and it will enable the traveler to suspend clothes
or other articles around a tent pole. The cord may
also be used for a toggle when two pieces of wood
have to be joined together.
71
A Running Knot with two ends is used when it is
inconvenient to divide the rope. Unless the ends are
at liberty it could not be used round a mast, but it
can be easily slipped round a pier.
STATIONER'S KNOT
This knot is frequently checked by a bow as shown
in the diagram, page 75, lower right.
It is sometimes checked by a Flemish Knot or by
a Check Knot. These two knots cannot be tied unless
the ends are loose. They cannot be untied without
78
assistance from a marlinspike or some similar con-
trivance.
The Stationer's Knot is handy for tying a parcel
as it can be made rapidly and undone with ease.
Make a running noose at the end of a piece of twine
and bring it to the center of the parcel. Take the
twine round the parcel at right angles, round the noose
and making a bight slip it under as illustrated. A
pull at the end releases the knot instantly.
PURCHASES AND SLINGS
Single Whip — rope rove through a single block
fixed in any position. It is used for light work. No
power is gained.
Double Whip — rope rove through two single blocks
—upper block a tail block, lower one movable hook
block. The standing part of the fall is secured close
to the tail block. The power gained is double.
SINGLE WHIP
DOUBLE WHIP RUNNER GUN TACKLE
8o
Runner — a piece of rope rove through a single
block with a standing eye in one end and pointed at the
other. The power gained is double.
Gun Tackle-
-two single blocks.
Power gained-
1IANDY BILLY WATCH OK DOUBLE
OR JIGGER LUFF TACKLE LUFF
THREEFOLD
PURCHASE
twice or three times according to which is the movable
block.
Jigger — a small tackle for general use ; a double
block with a tail called a jigger and a single block
8i
with a hook. The standing part of the fall is spliced
into the strop of the single block. Power gained — -
three or four times.
Handy Billy is a small tackle for general use.
Up and Down Tackle — a double and single block.
The double block is fitted with a thimble, the single
block is a hook block, fitted with a long strop. The
standing part of the fall is spliced in the strop of the
single block. Power gained — three times.
Luff Tackle — two hook blocks, one double and one
single. The standing part of the fall of this tackle is
spliced into a strop of the single block. It is some-
times rove through a becket in the single block and
secured by being spliced round the strop at the neck
of it. Power gained — three or four times.
Double Luff Tackle — two double blocks.
Threefold Purchase — two threefold blocks. Power
gained — six or seven times.
Fourfold Purchase — two fourfold blocks. Power
gained — eight times.
Single Spanish Burton — two blocks and a hook.
Power gained — three times. It is not in general use.
Burton — a double hook block and a single hook
block, fitted with a long strop, the standing part being
6
82
spliced round the strop and hook of the single block.
Power gained — three times.
Runner and Tackle — consists of three blocks, one
double and two single. One of the single blocks is
FOURFOLD SINGLE
PURCHASE SPANISH
BURTON
DOUBLE SPANISH BURTON
fitted with a thimble, as a lashing
or shackling block,
through which the runner is rove. The double block
of the tackle is turned in one end of the runner. The
standing part of the tackle is spliced in the seat of the
83
single block which is fitted with a lung strop and hook.
Power gained — eight times.
Double Spanish Burton — There are two forms of
this purchase. One by using three single blocks and
the other by using one double and two single blocks. •
Power gained — five times.
SPANISH WINDLASS
A Spanish Windlass — To rig a Spanish windlass
take a good strand well greased in the center. Place
the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to
be hove together and bringing the ends of the strand
up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the
ends of the strand and lay them up with their own
parts so as to form two eyes. Take a round turn with
this round the bolt, put a marline-spike in each eye
and heave around.
84
A Parbuckle is used for hauling up or lowering
down a cask, or any cylindrical object where there is no
crane or tackle. Middle the rope to be used for the
parbuckle, place the bight over a post or pin as most
convenient ; the two ends are then passed under
the two quarters of the cask, bring the ends back
again over it and they both being hauled taut or
slackened together either raise or lower the cask as
may be required. Care must be taken to keep an equal
strain on both parts to prevent the cask slipping out.
PARBUCKLE Z BUTT SLINGS BALE SLINGS CAN HOOKS
There are several methods of slinging a cask, viz.,
with butt slings, bale slings and head up, also by means
of can hooks.
A Butt Sling is a single piece of rope fitted with an
eye splice in one end and the other end pointed or
whipped. To sling the cask, the cask is placed on its
bilge bung up ; reeve the end of the sling through the
eye splice and place the loop thus formed over one
85
end of the cask between the first and second hoops and
haul well taut, the eye splice being in line with the
bungs; then take the end of the sling round the other
end of the cask between the first and second hoops
and clove-hitch it to its own part in line with the
bung.
A Bale Sling is a single piece of rope short spliced
together. To sling a cask, the cask is placed on its
bilge bung up, the slings passed underneath both ends
of the cask between the first and second hoops ; the
bights are then taken over the cask, and one bight
passed through the other, taking care the cross is in
line with the bung.
Can Hooks are used for breaking off a cask, that is
for lifting out the first e&sk of a tier where there is
not room to put on a butt or bale sling. Casks are
never hoisted up writh can hooks.
To pass a life line dip the end under the slings and
over the davit and take two or three turns round all
parts and hold on to the end.
To pass a life line for a "full due" proceed as above
but substitute half hitches for round turns and tuck
the end in.
86
To sling a cask head up the cask is placed on its
end, pass a rope under the bottom fairly in the center,
then form an overhand knot with both ends of the
rope on the top of the cask, open the knot out and
place bights over the head between the first and second
loops, haul them well taut, then reef-knot both ends
together on top. yj
SLING A CASK ON END
A Stropper is used for securing a rope while it is
being belayed. Take the stropper in the left hand,
make a half hitch against the lay, dog the end with the
lay of the rope and seize it. With left-handed rope
the end of the stropper should be passed under the
rope from left to right. To put a strop on a hemp
rope, center the bight of the strop and place it over the
§7
rope, then dog the ends opposite ways under and over,
and hook on the tackle to both bights.
To put a strop on a Spar use the ordinary bale sling-
strop.
TO PAN A
STROPPER
TO PUT A STROP ON A SPAR TAIL JIGGER
A Tail Jigger is similar to a stropper but with an
additional turn. To put on a tail jigger take the first
two parts of a rolling hitch, dog the end with the lay
and seize it.
FASTENINGS, MOORINGS AND
RING KNOTS
A landsman is always fascinated by the ease with
which the sailor will handle big ropes and the way in
which he will warp a vessel in or out of a dock or
moor it to a pier by the simple twisting of the cable
round a post or cleat which are on the vessels them-
selves or on the pier-head.
The Simple Stoppered Loop is familiar to all and
when the end of the rope can be constantly used no
other fastening is required.
LARK'S HEAD
SIMPLE STOPPERED LOOP
89
A Lark's Head can easily be made over a post when
there is a running noose or knot. This is clearly
shown in the diagram.
WATERMAN'S KNOT
TWISTED ROPE FASTENING
The Waterman's Knot is used when the end of the
rope is not stoppered or when the middle of the rope
must be used. This is similar to the clove hitch. It
can very quickly be made by placing two loops on
the rope as shown in the diagram.
The holding power of a twisted rope is illustrated
clearly in the diagram to the right of the Waterman's
Knot.
90
TWO LOOPS OF A WATERMAN'S KNOT
The Chain Fastening is of a more permanent
character, and is used when a vessel is to be moored
for any length of time.
CHAIN FASTENING
9i
Square moorings or sheaves are occasionally used
for the mooring of vessels. In these instances the
fastenings vary. The diagram shows a double fasten-
ing" to sheaves.
DOUBLE CHAIN FASTENING TO SHEAVES
A loop fastening to sheaves may be tied or untied
without untying the loop itself. It is made by passing
the loops, A, B, C, D, and E as shown and then placing
the loop F over the head of the right-hand post of the
sheaves. When slackened the loop of the cable F will
again slip over the head of the post and the turns and
then reversed. There is a more simple fastening by
wrapping the cable round the angle of the sheaves.
92
LOOP FASTENING TO SHEAVES
The crossed and square fastenings as shown in the
diagrams need no explanation. The ends are secured
by being stoppered to the cable.
CROSSED AND SQUARE FASTENING
93
SQUARE FASTENING
To secure a rope round a cleat first take a round
turn, then a figure of 8 knot is made round the cleat
pin and repeated twice. On no account should a half
hitch be made over the pin or cleat afterwards. The
main object is to insure that the rope will not jamb.
HAULING
PART
TO SECURE A ROPE ROUND A BELAYING PIN OR ROUND A CLEAT
94
A study of the many knots used for fastenings or
moorings show that they are only practical applica-
tions of many of the knots, bends or hitches that have
already been illustrated in preceding chapters of this
book.
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3 FIG. 4 FIG. 5
FIG. 6
The Sailor's Knot is a very simple mooring knot for
the painter of a small boat. It is shown on Figs. I and
2. This knot shows one line straight while the end is
twisted round in two hitches.
The Slippery Ring Knot is shown in Fig. 3. It can
be cast off at any moment. Fig. 4 shows the same
95
knot but it is made permanent by being stoppered as
seen in Fig. 4. The slippery ring knot has one turn
in the ring.
The Simple Boat Knot, Fig. 5, has an advantage for
rapidity of unmooring. It is made with only one turn
in the ring.
The loose end is left longer than in the
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
FIG. 11 FIG. 12
diagram but as it sometimes catches in the ring it is
not very popular with sailors.
The Lark Boat Knot, Fig. 6, is really a double boat
knot. It differs from the boat knot in that a bight
instead of a single end of rope is put through the ring
and a thole used to fasten it.
96
The Boat Knot, Fig. y, is made in the same way
as the marline spike hitch, the only difference being
that a thole pin or other small piece of wood is put
through the center of the knot instead of a marline
spike. By withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift
of its own accord.
Simple and Crossed Running Knots are shown in
Figs. 8 and 9. The simple fastening, Fig. 8, is not so
secure, but chafes less than the crossed running knot,
Fig. 9.
The Capstan Knot, Fig. 10, is an application of the
figure of 8 knot. To make this cross the end of the
rope after it is through the ring, bring it round the
standing part, through the first bight and through its
own bight.
The Lark's Head Knot, Fig. 11, is somewhat like
the lark boat knot but instead of the ends being
brought ' down outside the bight after being passed
through the ring, they are put through it. This is seen
in the ring part of. Fig. n. The whole illustration
shows a Lark's Head stoppered.
The Lark's Head Stoppered may be made by pass-
ing a bight through the ring and drawing the two parts
of the rope through the bight. Where this is not prac-
tical by reason of one end of the rope being fast, the
end may be passed up through the ring behind the
97
standing part and drawn down through the right and
bight again. Sometimes instead of being stoppered
with an overhand knot as seen in Fig. n the end is
seized to the standing part with twine, as shown in
Fig. 12.
The Lark's Head with Crossed Ends in Fig. 13 is
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
FIG. 15
FIG. 16
FIG. 18
made in the same way as the Lark's head except that
the end comes over instead of through the bight. If
the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in
the other and drawn apart this knot is the clove hitch
or builder's knot.
7
98
The Double Lark's Head, Fig. 14, is easily followed
in the diagram. A bight is first made and the ends
passed through it, the ends are then put through the
ring and through the loop already made and hauled
taut.
The Treble Lark's Head, Fig. 15, is not as difficult
as it appears in the diagram. First bring the bight of
the rope up through the ring, then take one of the
ends and pass it through the bight and up through the
ring. Then put it down through its own bight. Do
the same with the other part and the knot is formed.
Back-Handed Sailors' Knots are shown in Figs. 16
and 17. This knot is made by passing an end through
the ring round at the back of the standing part and
through the ring again, finishing with two half hitches
round the standing part.
gggggggagst
A SLIP KNOT STOPPERED
Slip Knots stoppered as shown in Fig. 18 and above
are easily made and the diagrams show their formation
clearly.
SLIP KNOT AND SLIP CLINCH
Slip Knot secured by a slip clinch is another simple
knot and easily followed in the diagram.
GUNNER'S OR DELAY KNOT
The Gunner's Knot is simply a carrick bend made
with the two ends of a rope after it has been passed
through two rings. This is sometimes called a delay
knot.
IOO
LEAD LINE AND LEAD
Securing Lead Line to Lead.— The lead is fitted
with a good wire grommet parcelled over. The lead
line should have a long eye spliced in it and is secured
by passing the eye through the grommet and over the
lead.
Hawsers are bent together by two half hitches and
seizing the ends in addition to methods already ex-
plained.
BEND HAWSERS
MOUSING A HOOK
Mousing a hook is to prevent a chain or rope from
slipping off or to prevent it becoming unhooked. A
few turns of a rope yarn are passed round the ends
of the hook and the standing part, the ends are brought
round the middle a few times and fastened with a reef
knot.
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, ETC.
A practical knowledge of the proper way to lash a
rope is necessary to anyone who has anything to do
with a vessel no matter what its character. Occa-
sions constantly occur on sea and on land, in fair
weather and foul, to unite ropes on the bight or that
are fitted with eyes or with other loops.
RUNNING KNOT IN THE EYE OP A ROPE
A Running knot fastened in the eye of a rope is the
simplest of these knots. The diagram shows how this
is made.
The Dead-Eye Lashing is one of frequent use on
board full-rigged ships. It admits of easy adjustment
to the strain of the ropes. The ram blocks are fastened
in the eyes, which are made by simple lashings and
tightened by the lanyards, A, A, which pass through
102
holes on the deadeye, so as to tighten or slacken the
rope at will. The ends of the lanyard are fastened to
the main rope.
The Belaying-Pin Splice as shown in the diagram
really illustrates three methods of joining cordage.
The belaying-pin is marked A. It is stoppered on the
end of the rope and served with yarn, passed through
DEAD-EYE LASHING
BELAYING-PIN SPLICE
the eye of the rope and at the other end a loop is
formed. Through this loop or bend a button secured
to the rope, B, by a single knot is passed, and the
double junction is complete.
The Wedding Knot or Rose Lashing is one to join
two rope-ends both having eyes. The lashing is passed
successively through both eyes and then tied in the
center.
103
The Shell Lashing is made by looping two ends of
rope around a spherical shell and seizing the end to the
standing parts.
WEDDING KNOT (UPPER)
HSSBSHH^SSS'
SHELL LASHING
A CROSS LASHING
A Cross Lashing is used when a lever is used to a
rope. After several turns round the rope, the lashing-
is crossed round the lever and fastened with a reef knot.
The Portuguese Knot or Necklace Tie is made by
PORTUGUESE KNOT OR NECKLACE TIE
104
taking several turns round the spars to be joined, then
two turns round the lashings and secured with a reef
knot.
NIPPERING OR PACKING
Nippering or Packing is a method for securing two
ropes together with cross turns. These are hauled
taut; and further secured by round turns over all after
the ropes have been jambed together. The ends are
fastened with a reef knot.
WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING
A West Country Whipping is formed by middling
the twine around the part of the rope to be marked
and half-knotting it at every half turn so that each
knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient num-
ber of turns are passed finish it off with a reef knot.
To finish off a whipping without showing a knot lay
one end forward as at A in the diagram, then pass the
A
FINISHING A WHIPPING
other end round and round a sufficient number of
times, hauling taut each time. Three or four loose
turns are then made and the end passed under these
backwards. These ends are worked down into their
places and when they are hauled taut are cut off.
A
FINISHING A WHIPPING
Another method is, instead of having a single end,
a bight of the seizing is laid along the part to be
whipped and the turns passed over it. When these are
io6
completed the end is passed through the bight at A.
The end B is then hauled upon to bring the bight and
the end of the rope snug under the coils. There are
now two loops interlacing at the center of the work
and these cannot come undone. When the ends are
cut off close to the turns the whole is fair and smooth.
^^N!y^Xtipy%]ptm!P'm
A USEFUL BAND
A useful band is shown in the diagram above. The
second end B is drawn through by a turn — a very use-
ful method of securing a ligature or a fractured fish-
ing rod.
The Packing Knot is used for binding timbers to-
gether. The first diagram shows it started at A and B
PACKING KNOT
107
shows it completed. It is tightened by means of a
packing-stick, C, which is twisted under the knot and
then twisted round and secured as shown. A quicker
plan is two toggles shown in the second diagram. After
twisting the sticks round tie the two ends of the sticks
together.
SIMPLE PACKING KNOT
A Toggle is a piece of wood turned to shape and
having a groove in the center round which the end of
a rope is spliced. An eye is made in another rope by
any method and the toggle is slipped into it. To un-
fasten it the ropes are slackened. Another form of
toggle is a round piece of wood shaped like a button.
TOGGLES
io8
It has a hole in the center through which a rope is
passed and the end knotted.
The Jury, or Double Pitcher Knot as it is some-
times called, is useful when a jury mast has to be
rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the
m z
JURY KNOT, FIRST STAGE
necessary supports to the mast. The center K in
the second diagram is slipped over the masthead and
the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds
it in its position on the mast.
109
It is formed by three ordinary half hitches each
placed behind the other with the loop of the last laid
over the first. Keep the hitches together with the
right hand and with the left take A and dip it under B
and pull C through A and B.
Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place F
over E and pull D between E and F. Take G in the
H
JURY KNOT, COMPLETED
teeth and pull on the parts G, F and A. The ends H
and Z may be either knotted or spliced.
Racking Seizing is used where the strain is on only
one part of the rope. An eye splice is formed in one
end of racking and the first turn is passed round both
parts of the rope like a round seizing; it is then dipped
no
between both parts and the remaining turns are passed
as racking turns, over and under, leaving sufficient
space between each racking turn for a roundabout
RACKING SEIZING
Ill
turn to lie, the usual number taken being thirteen.
After these are passed the end is dipped down inside
the last turn and the roundabout turns are passed from
the end towards the eye between the racking turns.
When the last roundabout turn is passed, the end is
pased up between both parts of the shroud, ready for
passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the
end along the seizing and passing it down between the
seventh and sixth turns along the seizing, again to-
wards the eye, up between the two parts of the shroud,
as before, and again drawn between the seventh and
sixth turns so as to form a clove hitch. Then finish
ofif with a crown and wall as in other seizings.
To make the racking neater after passing the last
roundabout turn, the end is taken outside all parts of
the racking instead of between the six and seven turns,
and clove formed at the same time.
SPLICING AND ROPE WORK
It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables
and even ropes in such a manner that there is no
obvious difference in their diameter and no substantial
weakening of their strength. This can be done only
by splicing, that is, putting the ends together by open-
ing the strands and placing them into one another,
or if equal diameter is not essential by putting strands
of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When
ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block.
In driving ropes, too, knotting is out of the question.
It is calculated that a splice will weaken the strength
of a rope about one-eighth.
SHORT SPLICE
H3
A short splice is used for joining any rope not
needed to travel through a block.
To make a short splice unlay the rope to the re-
quired length which is twice the circumference of the
rope for the long ends and one and a half times the
circumference for the short ends. When this is done
whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed
together as shown in the first diagram, the strands of
one rope alternately between the strands of the other.
The two ropes are then jambed closely together. The
end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are
now held firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is
better to put a lashing round the strands to keep them
down to the rope on which they lie. The long ends
are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the
left hand over the first strand next to it and underneath
the second strand. Haul it taut in the lay of the rope.
Then enter the right hand strand and lastly the middle
strand in a similar manner to the first or left hand
strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope.
Put the long ends in again as before, cut the stop off
the fork and put the short ends in once in a similar
way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them
off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the
strands in once and a half each way, take a few of
the underneath yarns from each strand to fill up the
ii4
lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and marl
them down ready for serving.
The Long Splice has many advantages over the
short one. To make it unlay the ends of two ropes to
the length of five and a half times the circumference
of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short
splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space
LONG SPLICE
which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it.
Then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two
next strands that will come opposite their respective
lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before,
with the other. Take one-third out of each strand,
knot the opposite strands together and heave them
well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand.
Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends.
H5
An Eye Splice is used by seafarers to splice round
a block, deadeye or thimble and is formed by unlaying
the end of a rope for a short distance and then laying
three strands upon the standing part so as to form an
eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same
manner as for the short splice. Then put the next
end over that strand and through the second and put
the remaining end through the third strand on the
EYE SPLICE
other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands
and put them in again. To finish off split the strands
and take half of each, seizing them together, and cut
the ends off. When serving is used the strands should
be tapered off.
A Chain Splice is used for splicing hemp tails into
chain when required to travel through a block or fair-
lead, such as earrings and outhauls for forecastle and
n6
quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain splice unlay
strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay
the strand, A, for a few inches. Reeve the two re-
maining strands, B and C, through the link in the end
of the chain ; continue unlaying the strand, A, and lav
CHAIN SPLICE
up strand, B, in its place for about a foot, then half
knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the
•strand C as for an eye splice.
A Cut Splice is made by laying two ropes in the
position indicated in the upper diagram. Leaving the
ii7
ropes between A, A, to form an oblong loop, tuck the
strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye
splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served.
It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted
strands of ropes. For this purpose a marlinespike is
used for large ropes. This is made of iron, copper or
^SS
CUT SPLICE
hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust
like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used
for small stuff. For very large ropes a fid, which is
a tapered wooden pin usually made of lignum vitae, is
used.
MARLINESPIKE
PRICKER (ABOVE)
A Grommet is a ring of rope. To make it cut a
strand about three and one-half times the length of
the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and
keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand
in the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram
and then pass the ends round and round in their
original lay until all the intervals are filled up as
shown in the second diagram. Then finish ofif the two
ends as in a long splice.
GROMMET
ii9
An Artificial Eye is made somewhat like a long
splice. Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand;
lay the two strands back to the standing part of the
rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over the
end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns
down the standing part and lies under the eye with
strands. Then divide the strands, taper them down
and serve them over with spunyarn.
ARTIFICIAL EYE
FLEMISH EYE
The Flemish Eye is a little more difficult to make.
The rope is first whipped and the strands unlaid to the
whipping and opened out, separating each rope yarn.
Take a piece of wood the size of the intended eye, A,
between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch
over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing
120
them somewhat ; seize the ends and worm them be-
tween the strands at the shoulder. Then marl all
down, parcel and serve the ends.
Throat Seizing is made by opening the end slightly
THROAT SEIZING
and lashing it to the standing part. The ring shown
in the diagram is one of a variety occasionally used.
It is useful to pass other ropes through in the rigging.
Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a
SELVAGEE
short piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping
the short piece to give the requisite ring.
A Selvagee is used to form a neat stropping for
blocks or to go round a spar to which a hook is to be
121
fastened. To make a selvagee strop drive a couple
of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any
convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which
will answer the same purpose. Put the nails or hooks
at the required distance apart, according to the length
of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope-yarn
SELVAGEE FASTENING BLOCK TO ROPE
and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass
it round the other spike and keep passing roundabout
turns, taking care to have every turn well taut until
the strop is the required thickness. If it is to be a
very large strop marl it down with spunyarn ; if a
small strop use two-rope yarn.
122
To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.
— To do this is necessary when a sail is increased by
the addition of, say, one cloth. Then the foot rope
must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth
is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After rip-
ping the rope off four cloths, first cut the strand at the
distance 2 feet 6 inches from each other, as shown in
the diagram below.
jst a h c
a
Cut one strand at A and unlay it to C, then cut one
of the remaining strands C and unlay it to B, laying
the strand A up again as far as B. Then cut the re-
maining strand at B, wrhich will be the center, and the
rope will be in two parts, as seen in the diagram above.
Now marry the long end A to the end B, then lay
up the long strand A and marry it to the other strand
B, as in the diagram on page 123.
123
a*
>SSS£^
O/b bC
Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same
size rope and marry one end to the short strand A,
as shown in the diagram. Fill up the space left from
A to C by laying in the new strand and marry the
BENDING SHEET TO CLEW OF SAIL
other end to the short strand C. There will then be
four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices.
A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve
it from wet or chafe.
124
Worming is done to fill up the space between the
strands of the rope with spunyarn or small rope, to
render the surface smooth and round for parcelling
and serving.
Parcelling a rope is laying round it with the lay
of the rope strips of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3
inches wide according to the size of the rope, before
serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling overlapping
the upper edge of the turn below it.
Mallet
pp mSPIw
WORMING
PARCELLING
SERVING
Serving is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn
or other small stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn
is put, or, hove on by a serving mallet which has a
score in the underpart according to the size of the
rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the
rope. The sailor's adage says :
Worm and parcel with the lay.
And serve the rope the other way.
125
The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it
under the first two or three coils. The serving mallet
after being placed against the rope has two or three
turns passed round its body and another turn or two
on the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut
as the mallet is worked round the rope by its handle.
An extra man is needed for passing the ball of serving
stuff. When the required length of service is put on
the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut
and cut off.
To make a cringle unlay a single strand from the
rope the size the cringle is required to be. Whip both
ends, reeve the strand through the left-hand eyelet-
hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third longer
than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward
you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle lay up the
two parts of the strand together, counting three lays.
Commence with the short end of the strands toward
you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking it
through the cringle and it will be in right position
to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle. When
done the one end will hand down inside the right-hand
eyelet-hole and the other end outside the left-hand
one. The ends are then hitched by being wove
through their respective eyelet-holes and passed over
the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch
126
being towards you and the other from you. Then take
the ends down under one strand on the right and two
on the left of the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends
under the first two strands nearest the hitch leaving
them well in place. The cringle is then fidded out and
the thimble is put in on the foreward of the sail. The
A CRINGLE
ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed,
under one strand, again under two right-handed as in
the first place. Heave them taut in place at each tuck,
whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut
off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra num-
ber of lays, 5, 7, 9, etc., always an odd number.
127
To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as al-
ready told. After laying up the strand together in-
stead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are
rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked
back under two strands of the cringle and again laid
CRINGLE ON A CROWN
up as far as the crown forming a four-stranded cringle.
It is finished off by tucking the ends under two strands
and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and
cut off close.
WIRE SPLICING
In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to
prevent kinks getting into the rope or strands/ Once
a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out,
and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turn-
table should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted
on a spindle makes an excellent one) — the rope will
then lead off perfectly straight without kinks.
With steel wire rope, always before working it
put a stop on at the place to which you intend to un-
lay, and put a good whipping of twine at the end of
each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made
against the lay of the rope.
In making an eye splice the rope is handled better
if hung up in a convenient position, so that when stand-
ing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest
of the person working.
A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and
after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it
until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand
drawn through.
To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the
rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of
129
the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short
nip, but take long lays.
In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two
strands simultaneously to keep the rope in its original
lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 feet of each
end.
Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs
of strands are in their places, single them and continue
to unlay and lay-in until the six meeting places of the
strands are equidistant.
To finish off the ends properly can only be learned
by observation and actual practice. By using two
marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed and the
ends of the wire strands forced into the place it oc-
cupied, making a very neat job when finished.
Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas
and served.
Short Splice. — The same procedure is gone through
as for splicing hemp rope, only care must be taken to place
a good whipping on where the ends marry, and that
each strand prior to unlaying is whipped. The num-
ber of tucks taken should never be less than three
whole and one-half and one-third, so as to taper the
splice off. The number of tucks to be taken off varies
according to the work required of the rope or strop,
but as a rule the more the better.
9
130
In tucking wire strands the strand should be en-
tered in front of the marlinespike, which should not be
withdrawn until this has been done, care being taken
not to kink the strand.
Eye Splice. — Make the crown of the eye, take half
the girth of the thimble and rope to be used and put a
good stout whipping on to the wire, break the wire into
shape of the thimble and heave both parts of the wire
together by means of the rigging screws supplied for
this purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around
both sides of the wire and thimble at the ends of the
latter. Then remove the rigging screws and unlay the
end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each
strand and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off.
Then put a whipping on the ends of the six strands,
commence the splice by tucking the right-hand strand
first, then the others in succession, each strand under
one. The left-hand strand being the last is tucked
under two. This ensures that each strand takes a fair
strain. Care should be taken to keep the strands
straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well
down with an iron hammer and put on a good seizing
of spun yarn. Then tuck each strand a second time.
Wire 2.y2 inches and over should be tucked three times
full and tapered to a third.
Steel Wire Hawsers. — The splices of the wire are
i3i
made against the lay of the rope tucked three times
with the full size of the strand and a fourth time with
the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable
taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the
lay of the rope. The center core of tie rope is removed
on opening out the strands for splicing, and the cores
of the strands removed after the first tuck has been
made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times
the girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the
rope. The splice is then parcelled and served, the
thimble tightly seized in with flat seizing crossed.
Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band. — This
can be done either by the long or short splice, but the
former is recommended, as the short splice, though
•equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In
the long splice, if properly made, no such inequality
exists; indeed the spliced part should be difficult to
locate.
To make a long splice a rope say 3^-inch circum-
ference should have a splice not less than 60 feet to be
safe, and smaller sizes in proportion down to i^-inch
circumference, for which size 25 feet will do. Take
the 3j^-inch rope as an example.
Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a
sound marline serving at those points. Then cut off
132
the end servings and tie the strands together in twos and
interlock, as shown in the diagram.
Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite
close together, otherwise rope has a tendency to open
SPLICING INTO AN ENDLESS BAND
out further back and thus throw the length wrong.
Then open strands out singly and snip off short six of
the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to
say, leave a long end in each case opposite one of the
133
snipped ends. Take each of the short ends in turn and
carefully unlay them, at the same time laying in its
place the corresponding long end.
This should be done with all the strands, and
reckoning from the center on each side, the first one
should be taken away* 25 feet, the second 15 feet, and
the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally
as shown in the lower diagram.
Then commence at the first strand at either end.
First put the marlinespike through the center of the
rope where the ends cross, cut and remove the hemp
heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two
spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed
and follow up to the end of the strand, pulling out the
heart a few inches at a time.
Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no
empty space is left in the center of the rope by cutting
of the hemp core further away than the strand end
will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each
end with parcelling before it is put into the center of
the rope, as this tends to give parts of the splice a good
grip of one another. To finish off and remove inequali-
ties, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a heavy
wooden mallet.
MATTING
A Paunch Mat is used as a protection from chafe
on shipboard. Stretch a piece of rope according to the
size of the mat required in a horizontal position and
fasten each end. Across this hanging by their middles,
foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns
twisted together by hand and each rubbed down with
tarred canvas or a handful of rope-yarn. Beginning
with the fox nearest the left hand twist a turn in the
two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The
next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one
part is given to the opposite man. The other part is
twisted round the first which is given to the partner
and then again round its own part with the other foxes
until the required breadth is reached. Then as no
more foxes are added and the outside on the right is
brought over from time to time, a selvage is formed as
on the left side. There is a little difficulty in starting
but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each
fox from the right passes over the next one to it on
the left and is pushed back. The one that has been
passed over being taken up first over the next and
pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed
tight as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a
135
A PAUNCH MAT
136
selvage is made by straining another piece of cord
along the bottom securing both ends. As each fox
comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox
is laid at the back of it and so on alternately.
Sword Matting is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two
iron bars are slung in a horizontal position at the re-
SWORD MATTING WARP AND LOOM
quired distance apart for warping the mat off. Hitch
one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar
at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat.
The other end is then rove through the first hole in
the loom over and under the other bar back through
the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on
137
until as many parts as are required for the breadth
needed have been laid out. The last end is rove
through a slit and secured to the bar at the end the
SWORD MATTING
mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom
up, middle the fittings and lay it between the upper
and lower parts. Then lower the loom and the parts
138
that were lowest will rise in the slits and become the
uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp.
A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called
a sword, is then inserted betwreen the alternate parts
of the warp and the crossing is driven close to the head
against the bar over which the warp for weaving the
mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure
the crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways.
Haul it taut, take out the sword, lift up the loom and
continue to pass the filling. Half knot it with two
turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is
SPLICING A SWORD MAT
139
usually made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate
holes and slits in it.
To Splice a Sword Mat unlay 6 or 7 inches of the
mat, open the ends out, marry them together laying
one up and one down flat along the mat. Withdraw
the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles
of the other mat through the holes they will come out
of. All ends will then disappear from that side and
there will be four rows of ends on the other. Turn
the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side
which have been married together, withdraw the ends
belonging to one mat and introduce the correspond-
ing ends of the other mat through the holes. Perform
this operation on each mat and on each side there will
be twro rows of ends. Marry these ends together on
each side laying one up and one down and go on
splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two or three
rows, more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all
out on the same side and finish off as with selvaging.
A cobbler's stitch is used for joining the sides of
sword mats together. Take a filling of roping twine,
middle it and reeve each end through two bights in
each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at
each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back
through the same bights as the upper end which will
bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw the mats
140
together and reeve both ends through two turns in
each mat again, passing each other through the same
hole opposite ways. Keep on doing this like stitching
the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for calling it a
cobbler's stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch
through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and
cut off the ends.
A Thrum Mat is made of canvas and short yarns
A THRUM MAT
of equal length. These yarns are rove through holes
stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the yarns being on
the same side.
A Common Sennit is made by taking three or four
nettles according to the need required. Middle them
over a belaying pin and plait three or four together the
length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both
parts together to form an eye and plait them by bring-
141
ing the outside nettles on each side alternately over
to the middle. The outside one is laid with the right
hand and the remainder held firmly with the left hand.
Work the whole together adding a nettle when neces-
sary. After the eye is properly formed drop a yarn
and continue to the end with an odd number. When
it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a nettle at
regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving
its bight down and plait the other ends through this
bight until they are all worked through it. Then
haul on the end till the bight is taut. To secure all
parts cut off the ends and whip it.
A Square Sennit is made somewhat in the same
manner as the round sennit but without a heart. Net-
tles are used in the same ratio increasing by fours.
SQUARE SENNIT
ROUND FENDER
142
Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends divide
the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the upper-
most left-handed nettle round underneath all and up
inside two and over two of the right-handed ones.
Cross over the latter ones to the left and make four
on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the
right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two
A FENDER
and over two of the left-handed ones, still keeping
four on a side, because the nettle taken up always
comes round to its own side again. To proceed take
the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish,
off as the round sennit is finished.
A Fender is used to protect the sides of a boat.
143
Sometimes it is made of wood but more often is of
canvas stuffed with oakum and painted.
To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope
double the length of the fender. Unlay it, open the
strands and comb them until all the yarns lie straight.
Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling it
down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small
cords, such as log line, is then spliced into the eye.
A Round or Pudding Fender is made of a center or
heart of rope yarn worked over a grafted with short
pieces of rope yarn nettles. The nettles are first cut
to the proper length and the middle part slightly
twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thim-
ble and a seizing put on. The heart or pudding may
be of any old stuff such as old strands, spunyarn, etc.
This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly
over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned
back over the eye and the other left lying down the
heart. Pass a turn or two of twine or marline called
the warp or filling round the fender where the nettles
separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must
now be brought down and those that are down turned
over the eye. The warp is now passed again and
hitched as before. This must be repeated until the
whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as
shown in the diagram. The ends of the nettles are
144
brought round last turn of the warp and interlaced in
the grafting.
A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the dia-
gram by which mats may easily be made. Take two
pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive them into
the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm.
SIMPLE WEAVING
These should stand about a foot out of the ground.
Then take a stick or a piece of wood and lash it across
the upright stakes. Next drive a row of pegs into the
ground. These pegs should be at equal distances
apart, not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the
lashed stick. Two sets of strings are then tied to the
cross stick. The ends of one set are fastened to the
sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in
145
the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a
dozen strings, then the odd numbered should be
fastened to the sticks and the even numbered to the
staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff,
placing a handful of straw or rushes between the
strings at each movement and making them lie close,
a good mat is made. These mats may be joined to-
MALAY HITCH
gether with the cobbler's stitch or by tying the string
ends together.
The Malay Hitch is a name given by Captain Gal-
ton, a noted traveler, to a method for fastening boards
or planks together to make a shelter. The cord is
twisted once and then as each board is inserted this
twist holds them sufficiently tight for temporary
purposes.
10
HAMMOCK MAKING
At the mention of a hammock one's mind naturally
reverts to the sailor and at the same time thinks of
the pleasure a good hammock will afford under some
shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock mak-
ing is quite easy and the tools necessary are simple.
First, a netting needle is required. There are two
styles of these needles, which are shown in the dia-
gram. In the top one the cord is brought round the
end at A, up one side, round the pin at B and back
the same side, the process being repeated on the other
side of the needle. This needle is made of hardwood
such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by 24 *nch wide.
The needle shown in the middle diagram has the
cord wound round it as in an ordinary shuttle.
NETTING NEEDLES AND MESH STICK
147
The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also
shows a cross section, is made of hardwood or bone
and is about 5 inches long and oval in shape.
At one end of the string to be used for the net,
tie a loop and place the knot on a nail fixed in some
convenient position. Place the mesh stick under the
loop as shown by A in the diagram, put the cord
LOOP IN MESHING
FIRST STAGE OF MESHING
under it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull
the cord taut.
Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord
beyond the loop, as shown in the next diagram, and
with a turn of the wrist of the right hand throw the
cord to the position shown at B, then pass the needle
under the loop C, through the bight B and down as
at D and draw the knot tight.
148
When this has been done the loop will assume the
shape seen in the diagram illustrating the third mesh-
ing stage. The cord must be held firmly with the
thumb at A when pulling up the knots, as the uni-
formity of the meshes depends on this.
SECOND STAGE IN MESHING
To continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and
placed under A, in the third meshing diagram. The
needle is then passed under the stick as before, brought
through the loop B and as before to form another
mesh. This is continued to make a chain of meshes,
149
say forty-five or fifty, sufficient for the width of the
hammock. The loop A originally tied is then unfast-
ened and it will be found that the meshes are all of
the same size.
The chain is then opened out at right angles to
the line in which it was made, shown in the next dia-
THIRD MESHING STAGE CHAIN OF MESHES
gram, and working across is begun by making a mesh
at A, then at B, C, and so on, until the length of the
first lot of meshes has been reached, when the net is
turned over and another row of meshes worked in the
same manner.
i5o
To insure uniformity it will be well to put the loops,
D, E, F and G, separately on the hook or nail as the
meshes under them are made. After a little practice a
cord may be reeved through the top line of meshes,
tied into a loop and passed over the knee and then
over the foot as the work progresses.
BEGINNING OF CROSS NETTING
HAMMOCK CLEW
An ash stick may be used at each end to which the
end meshes are looped and tied, and a piece of codline
may be passed through the side meshes on each side
and attached to the ends of the sticks. At each end
a stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a
i5i
triangle for hanging the hammock. Another plan is
to tie a number of cords together by doubling them
in the center and forming a loop, and each of the free
ends is attached to one of the meshes of the net. The
best plan is to reeve a cord about the size of a little
finger through the end meshes and splice it into the
form of a grommet. A thimble, A, is fixed in the end
to which the supporting cords are attached and the
cords which are reeved through the side meshes are
spliced into the eye B at C. When these clews are
used the net must be made longer than for sticks.
STRENGTH OF ROPE, ETC.
Rope is measured by its circumference. A four-
stranded rope is about one-fifth weaker than a three-
stranded one.
Generally blocks should be three times the size of the
rope which it is intended to reeve in them.
The hauling part bears twice the strain of the stand-
ing part hi a fall, the pin of a block is often more worn
on one of its sides than on the other and should be turned
frequently.
Sheaves and pins of blocks should be carefully ex-
amined at short intervals.
BREAKING STRAINS, ETC.
Hawser-Laid Rope
Rule
Square the circumference and divide by 3 for the
breaking strain; in tons. Divide by 4 for the proof
strain ; divide by 6 for the working strain.
Worked Example
A rope 4 inches in circumference ; required the break-
ing strain.
153
4 inches in circumference.
X _4
Ans. 5.3 tons=breaking strain.
4 inches in circumference.
X _4
.4ns. 4 tons=proof strain.
4 inches in circumference.
X 4
-5- 6) 16
/4wj. 2.7 tons=working strain.
To find what weight a rope will lift when rove as a
tackle.
Multiply the weight the rope is capable of suspending
by the number of parts at the movable block and subtract
Y\ of this for resistance.
To determine the relative strength of chain and rope.
Consider the proportional strength to be 10 to 1,
using the diameter of the chain and the circumference
of the rope; J^-inch chain may replace 5-inch rope.
Table showing the sized wire rope which may be used
as a substitute for hempen rope.
154
temp Rope
Wire Rope
Inches
Inches
3
1/2
4
iH
5
2
6
2/2
7
3
8
3/ .
9
4
IO
4/
ii
5
STEEL WIRE ROPES
i. The four qualities of steel wire used for wire
making are:
Breaking Strain p.s.i. — Extra plough steel, no to
120 tons. Mild plough steel, 95 to 100 tons. Best
patent steel, 80 to 85 tons. Bessemer steel, 40 to 45
tons.
2. Specifications. — Specification should state: (1)
Length of rope. (2) Size of gear. (3) Speed. (4)
Load, exclusive of rope. (5) If for wet workings. (6)
Gradients. (7) Particulars of curves.
3. Working Load. — The maximum working load at
average speed, including weight of rope, should not ex-
ceed a tenth of the breaking- strain as tabulated on page 1 56.
155
4. Sheaves and Barrels. — Great care should be taken
that wire ropes are not worked round drums or over
pulleys of insufficient .circumference, that they do not
strike against any hard substance while in motion. They
should be about 30 times the circumference of the rope
in diameter.
5. Uncoiling. — Much care should be taken in un-
coiling wire ropes, to prevent kinking. The coil should
not be laid stationary, but should be placed on a turntable
or reel and unwound from the outer end.
6. Grease. — To prevent corrosion, all working ropes
should receive a regular dressing of wire rope grease
thoroughly laid on.
7. Starting. — The greatest strain on a rope being at
the moment of starting, every care should be taken to
insure perfect steadiness of movement, as jerking is
ruinous to ropes.
156
Weights and Breaking Strengths of Round
Wire Ropes.
Diameter
Incnes.
Circum-
ference
Inches.
Lbs. per
Fathom.
Extra
Plough
Steel.
Mild
Plough
Steel.
Best
Patent
Steel.
Best
Bessemer
Steel.
Tons.
Tons.
Tons.
Tons.
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120
60
INDEX
Artificial Eye 119
Back-Handed Sailor's Knot
97, 98
Bale Slings 84, 85
Belaying Pin Splice 102
Bend Hawsers 100
Bend Shortening 71
Bending Sheet to Clew of
Sail 123
Blackwall Hitch 44.
Boat Knot, Simple 95
Boat Knot with Thole Pin 96
Boltrope 14
Bow Knot, Double 74, 75
Bow Knot, Single 74, 75
Bow Shortening 71, 72
Bowline Bend 47,48
1/ Bowline Knot 25, 26
Bowline Knot, Standing . . 28
Bowline on a Bight 27
Bronze Rope 18
Builders* Knot 73
Builders' Knot, Double . . 74
Buntline Hitch 38
Burton, Spanish, Double 82, 83
Burton, Spanish, Single. 81, 82
Butt Slings 84
Cable Laid Rope 13
Can Hooks 84, 85
Capstan Knot 96
Carrick Bend 48
Car rick Bend, Double . .48, 49
Catspaw 72
Chain Fastening 90
Chain Fastening to Sheaves,
Double 91
Chain Hitch 49
Chain Knot 68
Chain Knot, Double ... .69, 70
Chain Splice ir5, 116
Clinch, Outside 28
Clinch, Running or Inside 28
Clinch, Simple 28
/Clove Hitch 39, 73
Coir Rope 14, 18
Crabber's Eye Knot . . 37, 38
Cringle on a Crown 127
Cringles 125, 126
Crossed and Square Fasten-
ing 92
Crossed Running Knot . .30, 96
Cross Lashing 103
Cross Netting 150
Crowning 56
Crown Knot , 57
Cut Splice 116
Deadeye Lashing .... ioi, 102
Diamond Knot, Double.. 63, 64
Diamond Knot, Single ..62, 63
Dog Shank 70, 71
Double Blackwall Hitch 41, 42
Double Builders' Knot .... 74
Double Knot 22
158
Double Wall Knot 56
Durable Rope 18
Englishman's Knot 33
Eye Splice, Rope 115
Eye Splice, Wire Rope . . 130
False Knot 31, 32
Fender, Round or Pudding 141
Fender, Soft 142
Fibres 12
Figure of 8 Knot 21
Fisherman's Bend 46, 47
Fisherman's Knot 33
Five-Fold Knot 22
Flemish Eye 119
Flemish Knot 76, 77
Galvanized Iron Wire .... 18
Granny 31, 32
Grommet 118
Gunner's Knot 99
Half Hitch 36
Half Hitch and Seizing Bend
47, 48
Hammock Clew 150
Hammock Lashings 14
Hawser Bend, Simple .... 47
Hawser Rope 13
Hawsers 18
Hemp Rope 18
Junk 14
Jury Knot 108
Killick Flitch 42, 43
Knot Shortening 71, 72
Lanyards 14
Lark Boat Knot 94, 95
Lark's Head 88, 89, 96
Lark's Head, Double ... .97, 98
Lark's Head, Stoppered . . 96
Lark's Head, Treble ...97, 98
Lark's Head with Crossed
Ends 97
Lark's Nest 57
Lengthening the Rope of a
Sail 122
Long Splice, Rope 114
Long Splice, Wire 131
Loop Fastening to Sheaves
9i, 92
Loop Knot 23, 24
Loop Knot for Large Cord-
age 24
Loop or Bend Shortening,
Simple 71
Lubber's Knot 32
Magnus Hitch 43
Malay Hitch 145
Manila Rope 18
Marling Hitch 42
Marlinespike 118
Marlinespike Hitch 43, 44
Manrope Knot 57, 58
Matthew Walker Knot .59, 60
Matthew Walker, Double 60, 61
Meshing Loop 147
Metallic Rope 18
Midshipman's Hitch 42
Mousing a Hook 100
Necklace Tie 103
Nettle Stuff 14
Netting Needles 146
Nippering or Packing .... 104
Oakum 14
Open Hand Knot 32
Ordinary Knot or Tie .... 34
159
Overhand Loop 21
Packing Knot . . . 106, 107
Parbuckle 84
Parcelling 124
Pass a Life Line, To 85
Pass a Stropper, To 86
Paunch Mat 134
Pitcher Knot, Single 23
Pitcher Knot, Double.. 108, 109
Point a Rope End, To . .52, 53
Portuguese Knot or Neck-
Lace Tie 103
Pricker 118
Purchases —
Burton 81
Double Luff Tackle . .80, 81
Four-fold 81
Gun Tackle 79, 80
Handy Billy 80
Luff Tackle 80, 81
Runner 79, 80
Runner and Tackle 82
Three-fold 80
Up and Down Tackle . . 81
Watch Tackle 80
Whip, Double 79
Whip, Single 79
Put a Strop on a Spar . . 87
Racking Seizing ..109, no, III
Reef Knot 31, 73
Roband Hitch 39
Rolling Hitch 40, 41
Rope n
Ropeyarn Knot 35
Rose Lashing 103
Round Fender 143
Round Turn and Two Half
Hitches 43, 44
Running Bowline 26
Running Knot 75, 76, 77
Running Knot Checked . .75, 76
Running Knot Crossed . .30, 96
Running Knot in Eye of a
Rope 101
Running Knot, Simple .... 96
Running Knot with Check
Knot 24
Running Noose 29, 30
Sailors' Knot Fastening . . 94
Secure Lead Line to Lead 100
Secure a Rope Round a Be-
laying Pin 93
Secure a Rope Around a
Cleat 93
Selvagees 120, 121
Sennit 14
Sennit, Crown 140
Sennit, Square 141
Serving . .• 124
Shell Lashing 103
Sheep Shank or Dog Shank
70, 7i
Sheet Bend 46,47
Shortening Tie 34
Short Splice, Rope 112
Short Splice, Wire 129
Shroud Laid Rope 13
Shroud Knot 64
Simple Boat Knot 95
Simple Hitch 21
Simple Knot 21, 73, 74
Simple Running Knot .... 23
Simple Stoppered Loop . . 88
Single Plait or Chain Knot 68
Six-Fold Knot 23
Sling a Cask on End 86
i6o
Slip Clinches or Running
Knots Seized 29
Slip Knot, Stoppered .... 98
Slip Knot Secured by Slip
Clinch 99
Slippery Hitch 39, 40
Slippery Ring Knot 94
Snaking and Seizing 65
Spanish Burton 81,82
Spanish Burton, Double 82, 83
Spanish Windlass 83
Spritsail Sheet Knot .... 66
Spun Yarn 14
.Square Fastening 93
Stationer's Knot 77, 78
Steel Rope 18
Stopper Knot 57, 58
Strands 12
Stun'sai.l Halyard Bend .44, 45
Sword Mat Splicing . 138
Sword Matting ...... 136, 137
Tail Jigger 87
Tent Pole Knot 75, 76
Throat Seizing . 120
Thrum Mat 140
Timber Hitch 36, 37
Timber Hitch for Towing
Spars 37
Toggles 107
Tomfool Knot 23
Topsail Halyard Bend ... 45
Treble Knot 22
Turk's Head Knot 58
Twine 14
Twist Knot, Single ....69, 74
Twist Knot, Double 74, 75
Twisted Rope Fastening . . 89
Underhand Loop 21
Useful Band 106
Wall Knot 54, 55
Waterman's Knot .. 89, 90
Weaver's Knot or Tie . .32, 33
Wedding Knot or Rose
Lashing 102, 103
Weaving, Simple 144
Whip a Rope, To 50, 51
Whipping, American 103
Whipping, To Finish .... 105
Whipping, Palm and Needle
5i, 52
Whipping, West Country . 104
Wire Hawsers, Steel 130
Wire Rope 18
Wire Rope Eye Splice 130
Wire Rope into Endless
Band, To Splice 131
Wire Rope Long Splice . . 131
Wire Rope Splicing 128
Wire Splice, Short 129
Worming 124
Yarn 12
NAUTICAL LIBRARY
of TECHNICAL and
PRACTICAL BOOKS
HPECHNICAL books are tools. No man can
excel in a trade unless he has good tools,
neither can a man expect to excel in ship-
building- or navigation unless he has at hand
ready for reference a good collection of books
relating to its theory and practice. We have
in this list, gathered for the first time, all the
obtainable books on the subject. Any book
not here listed, if in print, we will obtain, no
matter in what language or land it is printed.
PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE
HOW TO REMIT: The cheapest way is to send post-office or express money
order, payable to THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY. If bank
check is more convenient, include to cents for bank exchange; if postage stamps
or bills, letter must be REGISTERED, OTHERWISE at SENDER'S RISK.
Send for complete catalog; of Books for a Nautical Library
HE #*% A magazine devoted to Navigation, Sea-
manship and Shipbuilding subjects.
RUDDER
$2.00 a year
25c a single copy Covers for Binding 1.25
<fcO C\C\ Bound Volumes: 1910, 1911, 1914,
ct>^.UU a year 1915f 1916> 1917 $4#0o
The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A.
OPPOSITE CITY HALL PARK
BOOKS FOR A NAUTICAL LIBRARY
NAVIGATION
Navigation Simplified. By McArthur $1.25
Handy Jack Book of Navigation Tables paper .75
Book of Sights Taken in Actual Practice at Sea 1.00
Tables for Correcting the Observed Altitude, etc. By S. Anfindsen 1.00
Useful Tables. By Bowditch $1.25; by mail 1.50
American Practical Navigator. By Bowditch $2.25; by mail 2.50
Azimuths of the Sun $1.00; by mail 1.25
American Nautical Almanac .30
Navigation — A Short Course. By Hasting 75
Navigation. By G. L. Hosmer 1.25
Elements of Navigation. By Henderson 1.25
Epitome of Navigation. By Norie 2 Vols. 15.00
Navigation. By Jacoby 2.25
Navigators' Pocket Book. By Capt. Howard Patterson 2.00
Practical Aid to the Navigator. By Sturdy 2.00
Wrinkles in Practical Navigation. By Lecky $12.00; by mail 12.50
Brown' s Star Atlas 2.00
Magnetism, Deviation of Compass, Compass Adjustment 1.2o
Manual on Rules of the Road at Sea 3.25
Nautical Charts. By G. S. Putnam, M. S 2.00
Nautical Science. By C. L. Poor 2.00
Pocket Course Book Chesapeake Bay 25
Pocket Course Book Long Island Sound 25
Pocket Course Book New England Waters 25
Pocket Course Book Portland to Halifax .25
Pocket Course Book Race Rock to Boston Light 25
Questions and Answers on the Rules of the Road 25
SEAMANSHIP
Fore-and-Aft Seamanship 50
Modern Seamanship. By Knight $3,00; by mail 3.25
Tait's New Seamanship. 5th Editicn 2.00
Notes on Stowage. By Hillcoat 3.75
SIGNALLING
International Signals — A Few Ways to Use the Cede 25
Nautical Telegraph Code. By D. H. Bernard 1.25
Navy and Merchant Marine Signal Chart 25
Signalling — International Code Signals 1.00
Signalling Made Easy. By Capt. Bernard 75
Signal Reminder. By D. H. Bernard 50
MARINE ENGINEERING
Elements of Mechanism. By Schwamb 2.50
Marine Engineering. By Lucas 3.00
Marine. Propellers. By Barnaby 3.00
Marine Steam Turbine. By J. W. Sothern. 3d Edition 6.00
Mechanics' and Engineers' Pocketbook. By Charles H. Haswell. . 4.00
Practical Marine Engineering. By Capt. C. W. Dyson, U. S. N 6.00
The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A.
BOOKS FOR A NAUTICAL LIBRARY
YACHT AND NAVAL ARCHITECTURE
Naval Architecture Simplified. By Desmond $5.00
A Text Book of Laying Off. By Attwood and Cocper 2.00
Elements of Yacht Design. By N. L. Skene 2.00
Handbook of Ship Calculations, Construction and Operation
$5.00 ; by mail 5.20
Machinery's Handbook 5.00
Manual of Yacht and Boat Sailing and Yacht Architecture. Kemp 15.00
Naval Architects' Pocket Book. By MacKrow 5.00
Naval Architecture. A Manual of Laying-Off. By Watson 12.00
Naval Architecture. By Peabody 7.50
Naval Constructor. By Simpson 5.00
Practical Shipbuilding. By A. C. Holms. 3d Edition 20.00
Speed and Power of Ships. 2 Vols. By Taylor 7.50
Tables for Constructing Ships' Lines. By Hogg 1.00
The Power Boat, Its Construction and Design. By Schcck 2.00
Theoretical Naval Architecture. By Attwood 3.00
BOAT HANDLING, ETC.
Flags, Their Origin and Use. By A. F. Aldridge 25
Ri^er and Canal to Lake Champlain 1,00
Yacht Etiquette. By Patterson 1.00
Yacht Sailing. By T. F. Day 50
Yachts and Yacht Handling. By T. F. Day 1.00
Southward in the Roamer. By H. C. Roome 1-00
Art and Science of Sailmaking. By S. B. Sadler 6.00
Boat-Building and Boating. By Beard 1.25
Boating Book for Boys 1.50
Handbook of American Yacht Racing Rules 2.00
The Helmsman's Handbook. By B. Heckstall Smith 4.00
Kedge Anchor. By Patterson 1.00
Knots and Splices. By Capt. Jutsum 75
Knots. By A. F. Aldridge 1.00
Know Your Own Ship 3.00
The Landsman. By Ensign L. Edson Raff, 1st Bat. Nav. Mil., N. Y. .50
Masting and Rigging. By Robert Kipping 1.00
Motor Boats, Construction and Operation 1.50
Practical Boat Sailing. By Frazar 1.00
Sailing Ships and Their Story. By E. Keble Chatterton 2.00
Sails and Sailmaking 1.25
Small Yacht. By R. A. Boardman $2.-5 0; by mail 2.63
Yacht Sails. By Patterson 1.00
ELECTRICAL
Dry Batteries. By a Dry Battery Expert 25
Electrical Circuits and Diagrams. By N. H. Schneider .25
Electric Wiring, Diagrams and Switchboards. By Newton Harrison 1.50
Modern Primary Batteries 25
Practical Electrics 25
Small Accumulators. By Marshall 25
Small Dynamos and Motors 25
Study of Electricity. By Schneider 25
Uses of Electricity on Shipboard. By J. W. Kellogg 1.00
The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A.
BOOKS FOR A NAUTICAL LIBRARY
DESIGNS
Rudder What To Build Series —
Cabin Plan Book $1.00 Racer Book $1.00
Cat Book paper .50 Schooner Bock 1.25
Power Cruiser Book . . . 1.00 Yawl Book paper .75
Supplement to Small Yachts 1.00
BOATBUILDING
Rudder How to Series —
How to Build a Cruiser (Seabird) 1.00
How to Build an 18-Foot Racing Cat 1.00
How to Build a Flattie or Sharpie 1.25
How to Build an Ice-Yacht — with Building Plans of a Scooter.. .75
How to Build a Knockabout 75
How to Build a Model Yacht 1.25
How to Build a Motor Launch 50
How to Build a Racer for $50 paper 75c; cloth 1.00
How to Build a Racing Sloop 1.00
How to Build a Rowboat 1.25
How to Build a Shoal-Draught Sloop 1.00
How to Build a Skipjack 75
How to Build a Small Cruising Power Boat 25
How to Build a Speed Launch 1.00
How to Build a 32-Fo©t Cruising Launch. By H. L. Skene.... 1.00
How to Build V-Bottom Boats 1.25
How to Build a Viper 25
How to Run a Boat Shop. By Desmond 1.25
How Sails Are Made and Handled. By C. G. Davis 2.00
Boatbuilders' Estimating Pads 1.00
GAS ENGINES
Diesel Engines, Marine and Stationary. By A. H. Goldingham. . . . 3.00
Gas Engine Handbook. By Roberts. 7th Edition 2.00
Gas Engines. By Hutton 4.50
Gas Engines. By Lieckfeldt 25
Gas, Gasoline and Oil Engines. By Gardner D. Hiscox 2.50
How to Run and Install a Gasolene Engine. By Von Culin. 25
Marine Gas Engines. By Clark 1.50
Motor Boats. By Durand 1.50
Motor Boats, Construction and Operation 1.50
Oil Engines. By A. H. Goldingham 2.50
Resistance of Ships and Screw Propulsion 2.25
Valves and Valve Gears for Gasolene, Gas and Oil Engines
, Part I, $2.50; Part II, 2.00
MODEL YACHTS
How to Build a Model Yacht 1.25
Building Model Boats. By P. N. Hasluck .75
Machinery for Model Steamers 25
Model Engines and Small Boats. By Hopkins 1.25
Model Sailing Yachts. By Marshall 75
The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A.
VCT 1 19ia
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